Jonathan Anderson pulls Loewe out Paris Fashion Week, Valentino returns to couture(2024-25)

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Jonathan Anderson pulls Loewe out Paris Fashion Week, Valentino returns to couture
Jonathan Anderson has exited another runway season, this time with Loewe; as Valentino returns to Paris Couture; and Willy Chavarria, S.S. Daley and 3.Paradis make menswear debuts, according to the new official calendar

In a major surprise, Loewe will not stage a runway show in January in Paris, according to the official catwalk schedule released Monday from the Federation de la Haute Couture et de la Mode, French fashion’s governing body

Under the creative direction of Jonathan Anderson, Loewe has been one of the hottest shows in Paris, for both menswear and women’s wear, boasting the most happening array of fresh front-row stars. But this decision makes it three shows in three different fashion capitals that Anderson has pulled out off in one week

The Paris news broke just hours after London Fashion Week revealed Anderson’s signature brand JW Anderson would not be showing in the UK season in February. And one week after Anderson pulled his menswear show off the January menswear schedule in Milan, where it has shown for several years

Bringing to mind Ian Fleming’s immortal line for James Bond in Goldfinger: “Once is happenstance. Twice is coincidence. Three times is enemy action

With the fashion industry in turmoil internationally, and the business in a dramatic state of flux, this triple whammy will be seen by many as presaging the possible departure of Anderson to another fashion house. Whether within the giant LVMH luxury group, which boasts massive brands like Dior or Louis Vuitton, or elsewhere, with Gucci in Milan still struggling to gain traction under designer Sabato De Sarno

Neither Loewe nor JW Anderson returned requests for comment

That said, despite Loewe’s no-show, the Paris runway seasons are bearing up remarkably well. Testifying to the ebullience of the French capital, a total of 29 houses are officially accredited to stage couture shows during the next season, from Monday Jan. 27 to Thursday, Jan. 30. While 68 houses are listed on the Federation’s menswear calendar, 38 with shows and 30 with presentations, running from Tuesday, Jan. 21 to Sunday, Jan. 26

One major highlight will be the Valentino show, which marks the couture debut of Alessandro Michele for the house. Valentino’s last couture show was in January 2024, which turned out to be Pierpaolo Piccioli’s final collection for the Rome-based house

Michele’s first ready-to-wear collection for Valentino was a highly lauded tour de force referencing the house’s glory days in the 70s, staged during Paris’ pret-a-porter season in September

Two other “guest houses” will also appear on the official calendar, Germanier, from the cool cerebral Swiss designer Kevin Germanier, and Miss Sohee, a Korean star mentored by Dolce & Gabbana in Milan. According to the Federation, they will be the last two shows of the season

Miss Sohee with Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana - Sohee

Couture opens Monday morning with Schiaparelli, in a week that includes many legendary Paris houses – Christian Dior, Chanel and Jean-Paul Gaultier. Continuing Gaultier’s policy of inviting in a guest designer each season, this January it is the turn of Ludovic de Saint Sernin

Besides Valentino, there are shows by Italian gents Giambattista Valli and Giorgio Armani with his Privé collection. Plus, a highly international array including Georges Hobeika, Zuhair Murad and Elie Saab from Lebanon; Rahul Mishra and Gaurav Gupta from India; Peet Dullaert and Ronald van der Kemp from Holland

Literally scores of other couturiers will stage shows and presentations off-calendar, notably Australian-born Tamara Ralph, fresh from opening her own maison on the banks of the Seine

In menswear, Louis Vuitton will be the key show on the opening Tuesday, marking the fourth at bat by Pharrell Williams, the producer/singer/designer who on Tuesday night will be designated as a Goodwill Ambassador of UNESCO

S.S. Daley and 3. Paradis lead a busy Wednesday which also features Paul Smith and Alexandre Mattiussi’s Ami. While Thursday will witness the runway debut of a fresh collection from the house of Issey Miyake, IM Men

Willy Chavarria debuts in Paris on Thursday, between two LVMH brands, Dior Homme and Kenzo. And a busy weekend will include shows by Hed Mayner, Hermès, KidSuper, Sacai, Lanvin and Jacquemus – the last after a four-year menswear hiatus

Plus, the Federation’s special Sphere section for emerging designers will this season feature Bianca Saunders, Cachí, C.R.E.O.L.E., La Cage, Lagos Space Programme, Lazoschmidl, Les Fleurs Studio and Ouest Paris

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